Blister free to Santiago de Compostela, it is all about lacing your shoes

Blister free to Santiago de Compostela

How do you keep blisters away on the Camino de Santiago?

If you are not interested in the chit-chat, please go to the shoe lacing tips straight away:-)

I walked from Saint Jean Pierre de Port to Santiago de Compostela in May/June 2018, again in September 2019 and Porto-Spanish border-Porto in 2020 . To my surprise I saw most people struggling with blisters and other injuries. A lot of people had to give up. So unless you like to chastise yourself, you could prepare yourself and hopefully walk the Camino blister free. One other advantage of being blister free is that you will have no trouble to explore and enjoy the places you will visit. It is not nice if you arrive in for example the lovely town of Pamplona and you cannot roam around because of your sore feet.

I understand everybody is different and things work different for different people. Nevertheless I would like to share my preparation with you so you might benefit from it.

Travel light!

Carrying less weight puts less pressure on your feet thereby reducing the likelihood of blisters.  It also reduces pressure on the knees and ankles which can lead to tendonitis, I seriously saw a girl carrying a big bottle of Shampoo (half a liter) and an equally big bottle of conditioner.

Try to carry not more than 10% of your body weight. The trouble is, the lighter you want your gear to be, the more expensive it will be. But you can be creativeJ. I might write something about packing later but I will give you a few examples now:

  1. Towel: Bring an Indonesian sarong! It weighs almost nothing, it dries in no time and you can also use it as a scarf if it is super cold and windy! You can also opt of a light weight microfiber travel towel but personally, I don’t like them that much. I feel half wet after I dried myself. Stay away from the traditional towels. They are heavy and do not dry quickly (and a humid towel in your bag is not only heavier but can also make your bag pack smell less favorable).
    A sarong in Indonesia can be as cheap as 1 or 2 euro. You should be able to buy one in Europe for 10-20 Euro .
  2. I saw some people who brought an extra small towel for their feet. It is quite a good idea not to use your main towel for your feet. What I have learned is that the best way to try between your toes to prevent fungi: a bit of toilet paper! Every Albergue has toilet paper so you do not even need to carry any (and bring anti fungus cream, apply it between your toes after shower, even if you do not have any fungus).
  3. Apart from the long 17km stretch of nothing on the Meseta, you will be able to find water (even fountains) and food in every little village so do not carry too much. Carrying just half a liter of water should be sufficient in this time of year. I chose to bring a Dopper bottle (dopper.com) with a sportscap and a “Dopper Carrier” which I hooked to my bagpack for easy access while walking (see picture 1).
  4. Adding to weight: I always bring an ultralight sleeping bag and air mattress, not for sleeping outside but sometimes the snoring is so bad that even earplugs do not help. Just find a spot in a hallway or in the kitchen and sleep there.

Shoes:

Get some good shoes! If you try to be cheap, you will pay the price later. Make sure the shoes you buy are an excellent fit, slip resistant and that they are waterproof.

I choose the Meindl Hiking suede/mesh, gore tex, air Active footbed, Meindl Duo 2921 31 Anthracite category A/B. Since the track can be quite uneven (rocks and mud) I chose ankle high walking boots to prevent ankle injuries while walking on uneven surfaces. It also helps to keep the rain out of your shoes.

After the Meindl wore out, I selected the kinda ugly and cheap looking Salomon-X Ultra. Much cheaper and quite light. I actually liked this shoe more, also because of the support in the middle of the foot.

Please be aware that if it rains, you should always wear water repellent pants to prevent rain getting into your shoes (wet feet=blisters guaranteed).

Preparation:

The first day of the Camino is around 24 km from Saint Jean Pierre de Port to Roncesvalles which might take you are long as 9 hours to complete. Almost all of it is up and the walking conditions are quite tough at times. Apart from Orisson (around 8 km hike from Saint-Jean-Pierre-de-Port), there is pretty much nowhere to stop so once you start, you have no other option than to go on. When I walked my first  Camino, I had rain pretty much all day and at some point light snow.

Walk! Make sure your feet are used to the shoes before you start your Camino. Try to do the following (of course depending on your level of fitness):

  1. Wear your shoes doing daily stuff as often as you can
  2. Start with walking 5 km a day, at least 4 times a week (with your bag pack whenever possible).
  3. When you feel everything is going well, switch to 10 km.
  4. Two weeks before you start the Camino, walk 20-25 km three days in a row once a week. Remember that 25 km a day without resting days is very different that 25 km once a week because your feet can recover. This is not a luxury you have when walking the Camino!
  5. Walk at least one time in the rain for at least several hours as early in your training schedule as you can. This way you will know how your gear works in wet conditions. Your raincoat and shoes might seem to be waterproof when you walk to the shop and back but it is a totally different ballgame when you walk for hours.

Find the time to train:

Sometimes it is hard to find the time and discipline to train. My two favorite ways to walk a lot were:

  1. During my preparation I was working in Utrecht and commuting from my house in the centre of Amsterdam by train. I decided to bring my hiking boots to work and get off the train at Amstel Station (5 km), Duivendrecht (8,3 km) or Bijlmer-Arena (10 km) and walk home.
  2. For my longer walks with gear, I opted to take the train to Zandvoort as early as possible on Saturday or Sunday morning and walk back home (26 km). There are a few small hills and sand so it is quite good preparation.
  3. You could walk a day of the “gelukkigerwijspad” I particularly like the Rhenen-Doorn path. A bit hilly almost all through nature.

One of the most essential things: How to tie your shoelaces:

For me, it was an experiment which worked out well. I advised some people who were suffering from blisters to do what I do and I had the pleasure of meeting some of them again later on and they actually told me it solved their blister problems.

The problem is that your laces should hold your heel tight in the boot. If you tie your laces very tight, they are okay to keep the heel down but probably too tight for your lower part of your foot. Laces also slip while walking to at first, you might be okay but later the tight laces for the angle lose up a bit and the area around the toes tighten.

First of all I changed my laces to much thinner laces than the original laces so I can double lace them. I also chose a bright color so it is easier to find your shoes amongst many shoes in the albergues. The laces in the examples are RED, last year I used bright blue (nobody uses that color). The main objective of tying your shoes is to prevent your feet to move inside the shoes without restricting blood flow to your feet. I did that by using a double lacing the lowest hooks near my ankles.

Step 1: Tie the laces not too tight on the first hooks around your toes and lower part:

Tie the laces not too tight on the first hooks around your toes and lower part:

Step 2: Tie the laces quite tight on the hooks near the ankles

Step 2: Tie the laces quite tight on the hooks near the ankles

Step 3: Tie the laces through the same hooks but now from the back to the front. This will prevent them from slipping. The laces will stay loosely tied at the front of the shoe as well as at the top yet tightly around the ankle hooks.

Tie the laces through the same hooks but now from the back to the front. This will prevent them from slipping. The laces will stay loosely tied at the front of the shoe as well as at the top yet tightly around the ankle.

Step 4: Tie the laces loosely around the rest of the hooks:

Step 4: Tie the laces loosely around the rest of the hooks:

The end result: Try it and see if this works for you.

Lock laces, an alternative:

An alternative which I used in 2020 is to use lock-laces to tighten up the hooks nearest to your ankle. This actually works even better than the double-lace trick described above. Please note that you need to skip the ankle hooks with your normal laces (you need shorter one’s) and then tie the lock-laces quite tight but only on the hooks close to the ankles. Please be aware that if you have hooks from fabric instead metal, you might break the fabric (that is why I would never buy shoes with fabric hooks).

Step 1: Leave the ankle hook free

1 Tie shoelaces skip hooks

Step 2: Put the lock laces around the ankle hooks

2 Put lace-lock

Step 3: Tighten the lock laces

3 Double lace lace lock and tighten

The end result:

4 End result

Lock laces can be bought in stores for running equipment and they even sell them in Decathlon:-)

One more tip on lacing your shoes:

Make sure the that either the loop of your shoelace is either small or tied to the outside of your shoe. Why? If you walk (especially downhill with a bag pack), and one of the loops gets stuck in the hook of the other shoe, you will tumble forwards and there it nothing that you can do to stop it.

Side knot 1

Take care of your feet and shoes while on the Camino:

Don’t walk to fast, especially not in the first week of the Camino. After that you will know better how your body (and feet) react to the walking. And besides, you have pretty much all day and apart from washing, cooking and socializing there is not much more you can do (except of course if you are in bigger places like Pamplona and Leon).

  • Whenever you rest, take of your shoes and socks. Try to dry your feet, socks and shoes in the sun (if there is any sun), even if they do not seem to be moist or wet.
  • Whenever you can during a rest, put up your feet so they are above your heart. This will allow your body to drain any toxic from your feet. One of my favorite positions is laying down on a bench with my feet on my bag pack.
  • Remove excess calluses (eelt) from your feet once every few days (best way at the end of your shower).
  • Every day, after shower, put on some calendula cream on your feet.

 

 

 

 

 

Slow cooked lamb with yogurt sauce

Lamb:
1 kg Lamb shank with bone Lamb 2
1 big onion
100 gr carrots
200 gr small mushrooms
One red capsicum
One aborigine
100 gr dried prunes
10 garlic gloves
Half a hand of fresh thyme
Two full teaspoons of mustard
Two teaspoons of honey
1 chili pepper chopped, a bit of hot chili sauce or one full teaspoon of spicy red pepper flakes
Some butter
One glass of red wine
Salt & pepper
Cup of chicken of beef stock
One bowl or pot with lid (ideally one that fits the lamb without too much space on the sides, if needed make sure the lamb is cut into two pieces so it fit the bowl.

Potatoes:
250 gr small potatoes (cooked with skin)
Rosemary, salt


Salad:
½ cucumber
100 gr tomatoes
100 gr lettuce
50-100 gr Feta / Turkish white cheese

Yogurt sauce:
100 – 200ml yogurt (Greek style)
2 tablespoons olive oil
One Garlic
Teaspoon of Dill

Preparation:
One day or a few hours before cooking: make small incisions in the Lam (evenly) with a sharp knife and squeeze in ½ garlic gloves with a bit of thyme until they are not visible anymore (use half of the garlic and half of the thyme).

Make sure the lamb stands at room temperature for about an hour before cooking. This takes the fridge chill from the lamb and allows it to cook evenly.

Pre-heat oven 220 degrees, gas 8.

Cut all the vegetables (not too small, the garlic does not need to be cut) and put them in a large bowl.
Melt 50 grams of butter in a deep pan and when all the water has vaporized, add a bit of olive oil. When hot, fry the meat all over on a fairly high heat for about 8 mins, turning it until it is evenly well browned. Remove the lamb from the pan and put it in the bowl.

Put all the vegetables in the (same) pan and fry/cook for a few minutes. Add all herbs, spices, stock and wine and re-heat till boiling. Lamb stewPour the liquid and vegetables over the lamb, make sure the lamb is covered by the vegetables. Put the lid on the bowl and place it in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes, turn the meat half way.

Reduce the heat to around 100 degrees (gas 2) and cook for another 3 hours, turn the meat every hour.

Yogurt sauce: Put yogurt in a bowl, add garlic (pressed), dill and olive oil and stir gently.

Salad 1Salad: Cut vegetables, put in a bowl, mix and put the grated feta cheese over it. Add some dressing (e.g. honey/mustard/balsamic vinegar) if you prefer it but I like the salad plain since the other dishes have plenty of flavor)

Potatoes: wash the potatoes; boil in skin for ten minutes. Pour water out and let the potatoes dry in the pan. Add a bit of olive oil, some salt and rosemary and let it fry on low heat for another 10 minutes. Let the potatoes cool down a bit before serving.

You can also serve this dish with couscous sprinkled with fresh coriander but I chose the potatoes which go better with the yogurt sauce.

Vasilikon Winery Cyprus

Vasilikon barThe place was deserted when we arrived at 10 am. We were greeted by Tina from South Africa whom was nice but she seemed not to be too passionate about wines in general. The new facility (they moved 3 years earlier to this place) was nice, a bit modern for our taste but the views exceptional. I can imagine that in spring when it is warmer, the experience would be better.

Vasilikon winesAll 4 wines were okay, especially considering the price (5-10 euros).  The white and rose were so-so. The red was tasty and a bit spicy with a nice aftertaste of pepper. The last red wine was the best and the only one matured in oak. Since Tina was alone at the facility, no food or snack was offered and we could not see the production facility nor the wine-cellar.

Vasilokon prices

The last award posted on the wall was before the move to the new facility and except of the last red, all others were produced after the move.

The tasting was free of charge.

 

 

 

Getting there and away:
The trip was quite nice we took bus (648) from Polis to Kathikas (4 busses day). It is an easy 1,2 km walk to the Vasilikon winery from the main square and from there you can easily walk the 3 km to the Sterna Winery (Click here for the review of this winery) and then over and around the Hills (unpaved roads) to Giolou. Take bus 645 back to Polis (every hour). Please note that google maps does not show the trails but Bing maps does provide the trails (see picture).Sterna to Giolou

One of the many great views during the walk:

To giolou walk view

Tripadvisor review

Sterna Winery Cyprus

“Not worth a visit unless you combine it with a walking tour and a visit to the Vasilikon winery” (Click here for the review)
2 van 5 sterren
The winery is pretty much the worst one we visited in the last year (we visited around 20 at least). When we were there the people did not speak English but tried to help nevertheless. The wine was hastily served with some bread in olive oil and olives. The same glass was used for all the wines (lucky we had some water with us to rinse of the glass). The winery also sells tourists souvenirs and even polish vodka (for 30 euro’s!!!).
None of the wines have a proper label (e.g. year missing, grapes usedSterna wine without information missing) and all the wines were pretty bad. The wines lack a decent scent. In the semi-sweet wine we tasted added sugar (it has a distinct taste) and we suspected the wine is actually the same as the dry white (same for the semi-sweet rose and red). In other wineries the wine makers explained that Cyrpus wines are typically dry wines because of the soil and climate. The 1.5 liter bottle of 10 year old wine (priced at 30 Euro’s) even lacks a production year and is not better than any of the other wines. The port was reasonable and the Zivania (Cyprus traditional grape distilled drink, snapps like) was okay. The Zivania did not have any label on the bottle at all.
Honest to say: we tasted the wines keeping the price of 10 Euro a bottle in our minds. If it would have been served as a cheap table wine (3 euro for ½ caraf) in a small restaurant we would probably have been okay with it.
The wine cellar is a little cave with a few holes and bottles but there sterna#4is no decent cellar with wooden barrels or so. The wine making facility is actually not shown and on the labels of the wines there is a text saying: “Produced and Bottled for Sterna Winery” suggesting that the wine is not produced there in the first place.
Please note that the location on the Sterna winery website is not correct. The location shows that it is IN Kathikas but in fact it is located 2 km east of the town (paved road).
Getting there and away:
The trip was quite nice we took bus (648) from Polis to Kathikas (4 busses a day). Also see: CyprusByBus. It is an easy 1,2 km walk to the Vasilikon winery  and from there you can easily walk the 3 km to Sterna and then over and around the Hills (unpaved roads) to Giolou and Sterna to Gioloutake bus 645 back to Polis (every hour). Please note that google
maps does not show the trails but Bing maps does provide the trails (see picture).

Spicy squid in coconut

Spicy squid in coconut

This recipe was invented in Cyprus. The squid was very cheap and we decided to make something off it. Lemons are widely available in Cyprus, just get one from a tree. This recipe is based on a Honduran recipe: “sopa de caracol” but of course, sea snails are not available in Cyprus.

Ingredients:

  • 500 grams of squid rings (frozen calamari, not batter-coated)
  • 1 onion
  • 3 cloves of garlic
  • One capsicum
  • One carrot
  • One onion (or spring onion)
  • Juice of half a lemon
  • A tin of Coconut milk or cream
  • Two table spoons pepper flakes (less if you don’t like spicy food)
  • Hint of salt
  • Handfull of chopped fresh corriander

Preparation:

  • Chop onions, capsicum, carrot and garlic
  • Chop the squid rings in half

Cook:

  • Put onion, garlic, capsicum and carrot in a big pan with some oil and fry for a few minutes.
  • Add the pepper flakes
  • Add the squid
  • Add 90% the coconut milk or cream
  • Let shimmer on low temperature (just below boiling) for at least 1 hour till the squid is tender
  • Add lemon juice and the leftover coconut juice just before serving

Serving tips: rice, veggies and sprinkle the coriander over it.

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Spicy Orange Pork stew

Spicy orange honey pork stew

This recipe was invented in Cyprus. When we tried the oranges on the trees in the winter, they were very bitter and we decided to put the juice in a pork-stew.

Ingredients:

  • 5 pork chops
  • 1 big onion
  • 5 cloves of garlic
  • One capsicum
  • One big carrot
  • Juice of one sour orange (if not available, use lemon)
  • Two table spoons pepper flakes (less if you don’t like spicy food)
  • A chunk of ginger
  • A tablespoon of honey
  • Some soy sauce
  • A bit of oregano
  • Hint of salt
  • Half cube of chicken stock

Preparation:

  • Chop onions, capsicum, carrot and garlic
  • Chop pork into pieces or around 3×2 cm
  • Skin ginger and slice into 2-3 pieces, bruise with the side of a kitchen knife
  • Put all ingredients into a cooking pan; make sure the pan is not too big. Let it rest in the fridge for 1-5 hours.

Cook:

  • Pre-heat oven 150 degrees.
  • Put the pan on the stove, low heat.
  • stir from time to time until almost boiling.
  • Put the pan in the oven for about 10 minutes at 150 degrees, stir when done
  • Reduce heat till 90 degrees and let the meat cook for 2 hours. Stir gently every half hour.
  • Poor the excess moister out in a frying pan, reduce and put it back in the main pan.

Serving tips: rice, oriental veggies and sprinkle Seroendeng (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serundeng) over the meat

 

How I find the best flight(s)

How I find the best flight(s).

I think you all know how to find a cheap flight but nevertheless, I want to share how I find my flights. If I am in a hurry and stuck to pretty much fixed dates, I use the ebookers site. Before you begin, consider to use the “private” mode on your browser or search with one computer/device and book with another. Rumors are that some airlines/travel agencies increase prices of u search for specific items a lot. There is no need to roam around many other sites because the all browse the same data from the airlines. Please note that some regular airlines now also often reasonable priced one-way-tickets. Last November, I wanted to travel from Sofia to Amsterdam. The best option was to travel from Sofia over land to Istanbul (and a great stopover there) and then with KLM (www.klm.com) to Amsterdam for just 70 Euro!!!

If I am more flexible and I know where I want to go more or less I will:

  • Find out which airports are in the country or region I want to go to.
  • Search which (low cost) airlines fly from and to these airports
  • Check the airlines destination map
  • Check out the low cost airlines prices.
  • Don’t limit yourself, e.g. we wanted to visit Bulgaria but the flights back where quite expensive so we found a flight from Skope to Eindhoven and we had a wonderful stopover in Skopje (read more)

You will be amazed where you can fly for little. Last December (2015) we made a return trip for 75 Euro’s per person to Cyrpus. From Eindhoven we flew to Sofia and from Sofia to Cyprus. We went the same way back, all with www.wizzair.com .

One warning: if you book separate tickets, your flight gets delayed and you miss your connecting flight…. You are stuck. The airlines do not have to reschedule or re-route you and they won’t. So make sure you have enough time (preferably a night) to connect to you next flight.

If you are thinking about going to Cyprus, please read my Cyprus in Winter story. It is absolutely worthwhile and does not have to cost much.

Please note that this tip is outdated. Skyscanner.com offers this functionality!

24 hours in Skopje and Kuystendil

24 hours in Skopje and Kuystendil
We travelled from Sofia to Skopje on the 21st of September 2015. We took a night bus (Mathu, they do not have an English website so head to the bus station to check the schedule and book in advance) leaving the international central bus station in Sofia at midnight. We thought it would be a slow big bus with TV and declining chairs but instead it was a small speedy mini-bus without assigned seats (lucky for us someone moved seats so we could sit together).

The trip was not too comfortable with 2 Finnish guys, one of them very drunk talking very loud. At the midway sanitary stop, the two bought more beer but the bus driver threatened to throw them out if they would drink more, so they stopped and fell asleep (for an alternative itinerary to Skopje, please see the Kyustendil section below).

The bus arrived just after 3am in the morning. Friendly locals warned us for the taxies because they tend to overcharge. It is an easy 2.2 km walk to the centre which is quite nice. The centre is magical early in the morning. You can see all the beautiful buildings lined up on both sides of the river (although some construction work is in progress) and stroll over the bridges and through the city when there are no other people (pay attention to all the statues on top of the buildings).  Some coffee places open (just outside the pedestrian area) at 6am but the main places on the boulevard on the south side of the river do not open until 8am (most of them serve great breakfast at very reasonable prices). If you are tired and wand to sit down, they do not send you away from the comfortable outside sitting areas (we even slept for a bit). If you like cats, bring some cat food. There are many roaming around and most of them are very affectionate and friendly, especially when you have some food of course. Some just jump on your lap, enjoy being petted and fall asleep.

Friendly and helpful people:
What surprised us about Skopje is that people are proud of their country and very helpful in general. One lady walking her dog made a detour to show us the place where we wanted to go. The owner of a bar (far outside the centre) was very interested in us (not many tourists go to that area) and he offered us a free beer when we wanted to pay and leave.  The tables and chairs are not chained up at night; they even leave the pillows on them (which is unthinkable in Sofia). The street dogs are friendly, cats not afraid and the staff of restaurants and bars gently remove them from their venues. One of the waitresses said: “He comes here all the time but we cannot allow him inside for hygiene reasons”. So nice!

Please note that shops do not sell any alcohol after 7pm or 9pm, depending on the season.

The Turkish area on the North side is very lovely and they have great kebab places (complimentary Turkish coffee was offered after our cheap Kebabs). If you want to have a drink, please stay away from the touristy Macedonia Square and especially from the Pelister bar/restaurant. It is overpriced, the service is very slow and they just done seem to care like they do in smaller places. Whether it was on purpose or not: when we wanted to pay, there where more drinks on the bill than we had and the Rakia which was on the bill was a much more expensive than the one I ordered. The waiters seemed to stayed away as far from us as possible, probably hoping we would leave money on the table and leave. When calling form one did not have the desired result, I went to them and told them that the bill was not okay. After some discussion they came back with a new bill with the correct amount of drinks but the expensive Rakia was still there. When I tried to address that (it became a matter of principle, not so much about the money) their English appeared to be a lot less good suddenly (see also https://www.tripadvisor.nl/ShowUserReviews-g295110-d1774629-r352559695-Pelister-Skopje_Skopje_Region.html#REVIEWS ).

We tried to visit the Macadonia Wine Club at Ilindenska 138a Skopje but we could not find the place. We walked around and asked but with no success. Now even the website (http://www.mwc.org.mk/) is not available anymore.

We stayed in a lovely little hostel near the river called Art Hostel on Ante Hadzimitkov 5 (6 Euro pp in a spacious 8 bedroom dormitory). Hostel Valentin is closer to the bus station (just a 5 min walk) which is also quite friendly and comfortable but there are plenty of place to stay.

From Skopje we took a flight back to Eindhoven for just 20 Euro (www.wizzair.com click here for: how do I find the best flights). There are busses from the main bus terminal to the airport for just a few Euro, even at night and the coffee shop at the bus station opens very early. Almost forgot, we tried to find a print shop to print out our boarding cards. We found one but the printing took a long time and the ink was nearly finished. When we tried to pay, they told us it was free. Yet another sign of how hospitable and friendly people are here.

To Skopje with a stopover in Kyustendil

Alternatively you can take a bus from Sofia to Kyustendil early in the morning which is almost half way to Skopje (2 hours, 7 leva. Busses to Kyustendil leave from the small Ovcha Kupel bus station – sometimes called the Zapad (West) station which can be easily reached by Tram 5 from the centre (Tram 5 leaves from the back of the Palace of Justice on Boulevard Vitosha (the huge building with the two immense lions, close to Serdika subway station). You can also take a train to Kyustendil from the central station. It is a fun trip by train but there are just a few a day and the train takes much longer than the bus). The bus and train station in Kyustendil are next to each other and an easy stroll away from the centre. I would recommend buying your ticket to Skopje (28 Leva, 3 or 4 a day) as soon as you arrive in Kyustendil to avoid getting stuck there (which never happened to us).

Kyustendil

Kyustendil is quite nice and you will find a more authentic Bulgarian experience here than in Sofia. The place can be a bit quiet outside the summer season. Stroll around the pedestrian areas which are quite nice and good for a drink, lunch or dinner on a terrace. Another recommendation is the Turkish baths, the Castle or one of the swimming pools on a hot day. There are two swimming pools. One is state owned and cheap (2 Euro entrance, including a voucher for drinks, address: ul. “Georgi S. Rakovski” 48 which is walking distance from the centre). The pools hold warm spring water and the showers are hot and smelly (in a good way because of the hydrogen

sulphur in it which is supposed to be healthy). The other one is new and privately owned (hence much more expensive). It looks modern and new, the water is a bit chilly and it is more “hip”, meaning that dance music is loud and bodies muscled. Google map indicates that it is a unnamed road. It actually is on Ulitza Spartak, 2km west of the centre and one side street after the side street called Bul. Macadonia (GPS coordinates: 42.281027, 22.664837).

Turkish baths, 7 leva for 2 hours for two people. Not commercially run, the people are very friendly, and do not speak English. The facility looks quite old and a bit worn but nevertheless it is a great experience. P.s. if you are male/female, they might ask you if you are married: just say “yes”. To find it, ask for the “mineralna banya’ or find ул. „Стефан Караджа“ nr 4.

If you decide to stay one night in Kyustendil, we would recommend the central family run hotel:  Hostel Sonata, 91 Tsar Osvoboditel Str +359 89 985 6065 (13-18 euro for double with shared bathroom).  Although the place is called a hostel, they do not have dormitories